Saint Barthelemy or St Barth

April 25 - 26, 2014

22 - San Juan, Puerto Rico,  23 - Fijardo, Puerto Rico  24 - Culebra, Puerto Rico,  25 - St Thomas, USVI,
26 - St John, USVI,  27 - British Virgin Islands,  28 - St Martin,  29 - St Barth

St Barth:  A -- Gustavia,   B -- Our anchorage   C -- Shell Beach

 Many of the 200 shops are the size of a small
bedroom.  

In the 1950's tourists began arriving at St Barth's tiny airport on small planes and private jets.  Wanting to protect their lifestyle, the islanders quickly passed laws to prevent casinos, high-rise hotels and fast food chains from taking over.  They did allow some luxury-brand shops to open and now it is known as the Caribbean's Riviera.  Like St Martin, St Barth is also a duty free island.  Several streets right off the docks in Gustavia are lined with restaurants and  designer stores.  As the guide book pointed out, these small shops aren't boutiques they are collections!  The 200+ shops emphasize quality and exclusivity NOT quantity.  Jewelry, clothing, handbags and shoes -- they are all here.  Designers like to include St Barth on their list of exclusive locations.  Lots of walking and window shopping.  We found that even the shops that looked less intimidating were very expensive.    

Red roofed buildings surround the protected
harbor.

Brian got his hair cut at one of the salons and it was a lot more than he expected.  The treatment began with a coloring shampoo to take the yellow out of his gray.  After the haircut and eyebrow trimming, his hair was washed again, lotion was massaged onto his face and his head was wrapped in a steaming towel.  Back to the chair for his final blow out.  Wow, he kind of liked it!  I guess the local barber shop won't be his first choice anymore.

A crepe with swiss cheese, ham and
an egg in the middle.  

After breakfast at La Creperie, we walked to Shell Beach.  It was just over the hill at the end of town.  Walking there took longer than expected due to a lot of dead end streets.  I went to the ocean’s edge to look for shells, while Brian had a Coke at the open-air bar, Do Brazil.  He missed a good one!  This should be called the topless beach.  The shells were not noteworthy, but some of the women were!

Shell Beach from Fort Carl's remains.

Three forts were built in the late 1780’s while under Swedish rule.  They surround the bay of Gustavia:  Gustav, Carl and Oscar.  We climbed to the top of the hill to see Fort Carl only to find it completely gone!  The fabulous views were worth it.

This is about a third of the steps to
the missing fort.

The sign was installed before they knew I was coming
for lunch!

Two notables:  La Select and Brian Smillie.

Every guide book and brochure that I read said that a meal at Le Select was almost mandatory while in Gustavia.  Not being ones to buck tradition, we hiked over for lunch.  The 65 year old open air restaurant is filled with trees, plants and interesting people….locals and tourists.  it felt great to sit, have a meal and do some serious people watching.  The French are a very interesting bunch!   

Boats, boats and more boats!  Hey, slow down!!!

This bay is extremely busy.  We were surprised that about 90% of the boats were smaller than ours.  We thought that it would be filled with large yachts.  There were a few mega-yachts both sail and power.  Of course, every boat has at least one dingy.  So, there is a lot of traffic in the bay as boats look for a place to anchor and others zip in and out of town in their dinghies.  All of this movement causes rocking of the boat, but the worse culprit was a continuous roll from swells washing across the bay all day and all night. To get a better night’s sleep, I moved to the guest room and Brian slept sideways on our bed.  Time to yank the anchor and head south.

Gotta smile — we’re lovin the ride!   

        

St Martin and Sint Maarten

April 22 - 24, 2014

22 - San Juan, Puerto Rico,  23 - Fijardo, Puerto Rico  24 - Culebra, Puerto Rico,  25 - St Thomas, USVI,
26 - St John, USVI,  27 - British Virgin Islands,  28 - St Martin

St Martin  --  A - Marigot Bay,  B - Lagoon

Once again a last minute email to Barb on Tusen Takk II brought a quick response with valuable information. We had planned to go from Virgin Gorda to Anguilla.  She told us that they had never stopped there because of the expense.  I had read in a Caribbean Island guide that it was very expensive and she confirmed that.  To register at the customs office you have to get an agent.  According to the internet it is $360 for a one week cruising permit.  That is very steep.  We were only planning to stay a night or two.  it quickly became apparent that Anguilla wasn't worth the expense or the trouble when there are so many other beautiful islands that are easier to enter.  So, a new path was created and we were off  to St. Martin.  St Martin is half Dutch and half French.  The northern French half being slightly larger.  Brian was already salivating over the thought of all of the chandleries and bakeries before we got underway.  This is the best island for marine parts in the Caribbean.  

The French bridge into the lagoon

One of two bridges on the Dutch side

The trip to St Martin was a rough one.  We left Virgin Gorda at 3:05 AM.  I thought that I had conquered my sea sickness, but the confused seas showed me who was boss once again.  At 3:45 PM we pulled into Marigot Bay and set our anchor.  The dingy was off loaded and we made a quick trip to shore.  Our first attempt to register with customs wasn’t successful — they had closed for the day.  After talking to a couple of guys on the dingy dock, we were instructed to go to Marina Royale and visit the Capitainerie where you can register on line for only $7.25.  They said the first place would have added an anchorage fee and a few other incidentals.  And, if you register on the Dutch side it is $80+.  That is a big range for a small island that is only 7 miles in length and width.

The Capitainerie in Marina Royal.

The entrance to Island Water World.
Budget Marine is almost adjacent and just as large.

To combat a downturn in the economy caused by the collapse of the sugar market, St Martin became a duty free island way back in 1939.  It has been very successful in luring visitors ever since.   Boaters find easy access to all parts of town with dingy docks at most of the waterfront restaurants and shops.  And, there are no restrictions as you travel from the French to the Dutch side.  Our first stop was to complete our entry documentation.  We arrived just in time for their three hour lunch break.  "Vive la France!"  That gave us time to have our lunch and

wonder the area.  Once we completed our documents we took the dingy to the Dutch side of the lagoon to see Island Water World (very similar to West Marine).  I don’t think we have ever gone into a chandlery without finding something that we ‘needed’.  Budget Marine is close by, but it was after 5 and they were closed.  Another day…..   

Family and friends walk to the cemetery surrounding
the hearse carrying flowers.

A cemetery for abandoned boats.  

We are becoming concerned  about finding a marina to haul us out for hurricane season.  Trinidad or Grenada — which is better?  We put our cell phones on vacation mode a couple of weeks ago when we left the US Virgins.  Now our satellite phone isn’t working!  We sent emails to three marinas and are hoping to hear back from them soon.  Our next stop is St Barth and I have read that there is an office to help us communicate with international destinations.  Emails are great, but I’ll feel better if we can talk directly with the marinas and get the scoop.  Well, that was our main objective for today, Thursday.  We didn’t get anything settled, but we are a couple of steps closer.  A trip to Budget Marine was more successful.  We walked out of there with a bag full of goodies.                       

This iguana swam over, climbed the line and then
sat sunning on the back deck of 'her' boat.

It seems that every island we visit has
at least one old fort. 

Confession time....
We ate breakfast or lunch at Sarafina's every day
we were in St Martin.

Plans to visit other parts of the island will have to wait for our trip North in the Spring.  We left the boat in Marigot Bay for all three days and explored as far as Simpson Bay in the dingy.  The lagoon has access from both the French and Dutch harbors.  Even our bus trip to Philipsburg had to be postponed.  I never thought that a year and a half trip would have us rushing to see everything!  Well, I’ll tell you the truth —- we are never bored.  Some days we accomplish more than others, but there always seems to be something interesting to see or do.  This is one great adventure!  

Can you blame us?

Gotta smile — we’re lovin the ride!     

  

British Virgin Islands

April 12 - 21, 2014

A - Soper's Hole, Tortola  B - Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke,  C - Cooper Island,
D - Leverick Bay, Virgin Gorda,  E - Gorda Sound, Virgin Gorda

Picture perfect Caribbean!

What were we thinking?  Here we are in the Caribbean's busiest charter boat market.  It is the height of Spring break and on a Saturday we decide to go to Soper's Hole and hang out on a mooring ball.  Soper's Hole is one of the top destinations for people visiting the British Virgin Islands by boat.  We pulled into the very large bay slowly working our way through the boats that were on mooring balls and carefully dancing around the other boats that were looking for an empty mooring.  Many of whom were oblivious to the fact that they were in a busy congested harbor.  When the marina was in sight, we looked at each and without another word called for a slip.  Luckily there was one available. We were very glad to be secure and no longer playing in traffic.  Soper's Hole Wharf and Marina is the picture perfect Caribbean village.  Pussers flagship store is here along with restaurants and shops.  It is a fun place to visit for a night.  After anchoring in bays for so many days, I felt a little claustrophobic with boats so close in adjacent slips.  

Methodist Church on Jost Van Dyke after Palm
Sunday service.

Palm Sunday we went to Jost Van Dyke's Great Harbor....the home of Foxy's.  Took the dingy into "town".  On the beach side of the packed sand road, hammocks are  strung between the palm trees.  The other side of the road is a series of small restaurants, shops and FOXY'S.  I'm not sure how any of the other businesses manage to survive.  Everyone that visits wants to see the famous Foxy's.  The bar/restaurant is named after it's founder Foxy Callwood, a singer, entrepreneur and 5th generation son on Jost.

The hammock side of the road.

Main street in Jost.

We visited between the lunch and dinner crowds.

Did I forget to mention -- Jost has a beautiful bay?

              

Arriving at Cooper Island.

Cooper Island has a pristine bay that is remarkable even among the best.  And, to make it even a more desirable their restaurant is phenomenal.  Recently, they rebuilt the facilities.  The cute Caribbean colored cottages are gone.  Instead everything is groomed and landscaped and the buildings are a sand beige.  We liked the former style, but the water and food are still among the best in the BVI.  

Lush new landscaping and new rental units.

This is one of those places I could easily spend a week just relaxing....with or without a boat. 

Small tables in the water for real beachfront  dining.

The nights are as beautiful as the days.

I was barely out of bed and Brian was still reclined
reading emails, when we got a knock on the boat.
It was customs patrol.  Now, even when you are
doing everything by the book, it is a bit unnerving to
see these guys at your door asking for the captain.
Kind of like driving on the highway and a patrol car
appears to be following you.  All was good.  They just
wanted to check our documentation.  

The border patrol left and Todd arrived.  He had been
 in the slip next to us in George Town, Exumas. This
trip he's with his wife, Kelly.  After breakfast they
both came over.  I was in serious need of girl talk.
We had a fun visit.  They are from Minnetonka, MN,
one of our past hometowns.  
Once again -- small world!
 

This is as close as we got to the rich and famous.
Necker Island is Sir Richard Branson's private
island.  The 10 bedroom villa can be rented for
$38,000/day.  Should I inquire about dates for
 any of you? 

The Bitter End is a beautiful resort.  The little villas
on the hillside rent for $1000/night.  Our waterfront
mooring ball is $35/night.  Considering our budget
we'll stay on board.
After our experience at Soper's Hole, we make sure
we are at our destination before noon.  The
scramble for the last remaining balls at the end of
the day is cut-throat!
  

Twenty-three mile/hour winds with gusts to 35 arrived Wednesday (16) night and started dying down on Sunday (20).  We were originally going to leave on Saturday, but the winds were still blowing like crazy.  Then another glitch, the customs office closed on Good Friday at noon and wouldn't open until Monday.  The BVI requires check out 12 - 24 hours before departure.  So, our departure day is Tuesday.  It's OK, we will have a smoother (11 hour) trip to Anguilla.  






In order to be secure during the big blow  we attached to a mooring ball in Gorda Sound on Wednesday morning after a night in Leverick Bay.  Gorda Sound is home to The Bitter End Yacht Club -- a huge resort.  To boater's the bitter end means the end of the free line.  In this case it means the last stop before heading out to sea.

Here's a new one for us -- The night before Easter there was a big fireworks display.  It was beautiful and seemed very appropriate....He has risen!         

This visit to the BVI has really been a walk down memory lane.  We have revisited some favorite places that were introduced to us about 15 years ago, when we chartered a sailboat with three other couples.  Those were wilder days!  We had some great times especially memorable were Cooper Island and the Bitter End.  While enjoying dinner at the Bitter End we were told that if we didn't quiet down we would have to leave!  We had always thought that the Bitter End was one of those places where anything goes.  Through the years we have come to consider it a badge of honor to be reprimanded in such a legendary location! 

Off the dingy and on land!

Strollin' the grounds like we belong.

Lunch at The Fat Virgin Cafe,
a Biras Creek Resort outpost.

Gotta smile -- we're lovin the ride!

The Rest of St John

April 5th - 12th, 2014

A - Great Lameshur Bay,  B - Saltpond Bay,  C - Coral Bay,  D- Hansen Bay,  E - Francis Bay,
F - Waterlemon Cay

I'm not sure you can see the dramatic difference from bright blue sky to gray with rain.

We moved to Hansen Bay on Friday to get protection from the wind.  The next four days were the first gray ones since November.  We have come to expect every day to be perfect.  The temperatures remain in the mid 80's.  Gusty winds have delayed our exploration of the north shore. 

 After three days on board, it was time to get off and get a little exercise.  The dingy was in the water so we headed to Coral Bay looking for a grocery, mail box and dumpster.  On the way to the dingy dock the waves were behind us so we didn't notice their size.  After taking care of everything and having lunch we made our way back to Gotta Smile.  Now we were going against the waves.  The swells were mostly 2-3 feet, but periodically they would build to 6.  They look pretty big when you are in a dingy!  We would see them coming, hold our breath and float over the top.  Quite a sensation.

                                                                      Free range goats, sheep, donkeys and chickens.

 About dusk Brian decided that the dingy should be connected to the boat with the chain instead of the dock line.  I was busy in the galley.  I heard a big splash, but wasn't concerned.  Shortly after the splash I heard, "Could you get the ladder, Jackie?"  Yes, I finally got to prove that I would save him if he fell overboard.  For years he has claimed that if he went over, I wouldn't look for him for at least four days.  The rescue went fine.  Unlike Captain Ron, I didn't drop the ladder on him as I installed it.  Hopefully, it never gets trickier than this.  

The mountains of St John give each bay a different personality. Some have good TV reception, some have WiFi and others have good phone reception.  Of course, the weather is also influenced, but since it is mostly blue sky and sunny we are more concerned with our creature comforts! 

Tuesday dawned with the blue sky we love.  We have been anchoring more than we anticipated.  That means using the generator to keep our batteries charged so we can use the washer, dryer, water maker, coffee pot, microwave/convection oven, hair dryer, etc, etc.  And, that means we need more fuel to complete the trip.  Called the Red Hook marina.  Diesel was $5.25/gallon.  Second call was to Charlotte Amalie where we found diesel for $4.75.  Since we were getting 315 gallons, it was worth traveling an extra 12 miles.      

When we finally made it to the north side of St John, we stayed in Francis Bay and loved it!  A day long dingy ride took us to Moha Beach and Cinnamon Beach.  It was great to walk each of them from one end to the other.  We sampled the snorkeling, but it was disappointing.  Maybe we just didn’t find the best spot. 

Local artists gift to the tourists.....

Happy tourists enjoying the local art and another one of God's masterpieces. 

Our last night in the US Virgin Islands was in Waterlemon Bay.  It will definitely be a revisit.  We arrived with strong gusts that challenged our mooring skills.  Rain and strong wind continued most of the afternoon.  By the time we launched the dingy it was dusk.  Just enough time for a quick tour of the bay.  

Looking along Sir Francis Drake Channel.  Island on right is St John.  The other islands are BVI.

We have been in the US Virgin Islands for three weeks and it has been all that we had hoped.  Tomorrow we will cross Sir Francis Drake Channel and begin our exploration of the British Virgin Islands.  So excited! 

Gotta smile -- we're lovin the ride!