Mayreau and The Tobago Cays

May 28 - 30, 2014

Yesterday I sent an email to a Dutch couple that we met in Turks and Caicos.  They were the first couple we met on the trip that we clicked with -- friendly and fun.  We got together three times while our dockage overlapped.  Wilma and Abraham gave us great suggestions of what to see and where to stay all of the way to Granada.  That is why I was writing to them.  I wanted to thank them again for their input and tell them how helpful their notes have been to us.   When we saw them last, they were preparing to return to their home in Portugal, before moving their boat from Florida to New York to celebrate Abraham's 60th birthday with friends and family that were flying in.  This morning we got an email from Wilma that told us Brahm had died suddenly of a stroke.  We are heart broken.  Two ships cross paths and by the grace of God a special friendship occurs.  Abraham was a great life example:  retiring at 53, sailing Europe, South America and the islands for three years and a full agenda ahead of him.  Once more -- a reminder to not let planning and saving get in the way of living your dreams.

35 - Martinique,  36 - St Lucia,  37 - Bequia,  38 - Mayreau and Tobago Cays 

A -- Saline Bay,  B -- Salt Whistle Bay,  C -- Tobago Cays
Green indicates land and yellow indicates the reefs.

Mayreau Bay -- Just look at that beautiful water!

This beached freighter on rocks near Bequia, kept
the conversation going as we tried to imagine how
did this happened.

Mayreau is part of the Tobago Cays which are in the Grenadines.  The Grenadines include all of the islands from St Vincent to Union Island.  We decided to skip St Vincent checking in at Bequia and out at Union.  

We ordered banana bread from Yellow, one of the
boat boys, last night.  It arrived at 8 AM still warm
from the oven.

The trip to Mayreau was short but rough with waves reaching twelve feet for about an hour.  Brian and I both commented on how much braver we have become.  Our first stop was Salt Whistle Bay.  A lively little spot that is very picturesque with it's half-moon bay, rustic restaurants and shops.  Unfortunately, there were no over sized mooring balls and the seabed was too grassy for our anchor to catch.  We moved on to Saline Bay.  It is lovely, but does not have the personality of Salt Whistle. 

Thursday morning we made another attempt to anchor in Salt Whistle Bay.  Our boat boy, Yellow, was there to show us a spot where we could get a good bite in the sandy bottom.  It was a much easier maneuver as several boats had

Shouldn't this be a movie set? 

already left.  This is a fun location.  There are lots of boats in a small area, which is a little unnerving until you see that they are all well anchored and floating in a co-ordinated dance.  The dingy was launched and it was time to see what was on shore.  The sandy beach felt like pumice under our feet.  We had it mostly to ourselves.  And, the translucent aqua blue water was comfortably warm.  At one point, the land narrows to a width of 50 feet.  Walk across it and you are on the windward side of the island looking at the Tobago Cays.  Our lunch spot was the Salt 

Whistle Bay Club.  Each group is seated at a private table with a thatched roof.  The tables and benches are beautifully made of stone.  After lunch we continued our walk to the end of the beach and a second restaurant called The Last Bar Before The Jungle.   We didn’t venture beyond to see if he was telling the truth.   

A peek of Gotta Smile from our
 lunch table. 

Food in the islands is prepared after you order.
Fast food is not a term used down here.
Brian rested while we waited for lunch to be served.

Rested and fed -- he's a happy guy.

Time for a stroll to the other end of the beach.  And...

The Last Bar Before The Jungle.

Unfortunately, these pictures don't show all of the
colors in the water.  You will just have to come and
see it for yourself.

For those of you coming this way, establish a relationship with one of the boat boys immediately when you enter a bay.  They are very friendly, will do anything for a small amount of money and they respect each others' territory.    Don’t be afraid to say ’no thank you’ if you don’t need what they are selling.  They will quickly be on to the next boat. 






































It was just a over a mile from Mayreau to the Tobago Cays National Park, where we anchored Friday morning.  The water is spectacular with more colors of blue and green than I could count.  Seagulls’ wings reflect the water's color making them look more like wild parrots.  The Cays are an uninhabited series of small islands protected by Horseshoe Reef.  Anchored, we look out to nothing but ocean.  The waves break at the reef, framing this beautiful park and protecting some of the most beautiful anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean.   Go beyond the reef, travel for 19 days and you will arrive in Africa.  No, thanks!





Gotta smile -- we're lovin the ride!

Bequia

May 25 - 27, 2014

A -- Admiralty Bay - Port Elizabeth

33 - Iles de Saints,  34 - Dominica,  35 - Martinique,  36 - St Lucia,  37 - Bequia   

On our way to Bequia I'm reading the island introduction in our guide book.  Then I pass it to Brian and he reads it.  The guide tells us, 'the mooring balls break free quite often.  They are poorly designed  and the customs office issued a warning about them.  Rely on your own judgement as the vendors are only interested in collecting their fee.  If you do pay for one be sure to get a receipt.'  Our boat is heavier than most of the boats down here.  And, the wind is howling.  Greater weight and high wind equal more stress on a mooring ball.  So, as we approach the bay we are greeted by Baker who convinces Brian that he has a mooring ball that will hold us.  We pay him for two nights and get no receipt.  He has none with him.  Consequently I'm up writing at 3 AM!  Just waiting for the anchor alarm to go off telling us we are free floating.  Oh, ye of little faith....that's me!  The mooring ball held through three nights.  When we were on shore, I kept looking out at the harbor to make sure Gotta Smile was in her appointed location.  She behaved well, just as Baker had promised.  

I have to tell you, after the introduction about the mooring balls, I was pretty skeptical about how much I would like this island.  Boy, did I get a surprise!  It is one of my favorites!  The harbor has a beautiful paved walk right at the water's edge.  There are vendors with some beautiful work for sale and at reasonable prices.  The people were extremely friendly.  The water is pristine.  The beaches are palm lined and look like a movie set.  The shops, restaurants, hotels and homes all blend in with the scenery.  There are no big fancy resorts and there is no cruise ship pier.  In other words, this is exactly what a brochure for a quiet Caribbean vacation would look like.

 

The Gingerbread House was perfect for a mid
afternoon snack.  Gingerbread for Brian (or course)
and sorbet for me: coconut and passion fruit!

Paved walkway from the harbor to the beach.

Two new taste sensations:  sweet apple and wax apple

Richard, a Bequian whale bone carver, in his beach
front shop....no walls - just a palm tree and beach.

Bequia is one of the few places in the world where limited whaling is still sanctioned by the International Whaling Commission.  The natives of Bequia are allowed to kill up to four whales per year, but they must use the same technique and equipment that their ancestors used:  hand thrown harpoons, small open sailing boats and the whale must be brought to shore by the same small boat (no motors).  Only native Bequians can participate in the hunt.   Many years no whales are taken.  The art of hunting without technology and mechanical assistance is almost lost.   

Two whale ribs form an arch at the entrance to the
Whale Boner Restaurant & Bar.  

                  

A rib bone accents the bar and vertebrae serve as 
seats on the bar stools.  The Whale Boner is a 
legendary stop in Bequia.

Gotta smile -- we're lovin the ride!

St Lucia

May 21 - 24, 2014

St Lucia:  A - Rodney Bay, Yellow Line - The road around the island  

31 - Antigua,  32 - Guadeloupe,  33 - Iles des Saintes,  34 - Dominica,  35 - Martinique,  36 - St Lucia 

I had a mental image of St Lucia before I read anything about the island.  I think the name is so beautiful I expected the island to be this Garden of Eden....all tranquil and lush.  Unsubstantiated images are seldom accurate.  It was lovely, but after Dominica, it came up short.

Overlooking Rodney Bay

We have seen houses partially completed since
we got to the Bahamas.  Apparently, people don't
like to take loans.  They build what they can, save
money and then build more.  

We decided to stay in the Rodney Bay Marina for four nights.  This was the first marina since Sopher's Hole -- almost seven weeks ago.  It was a good decision.  The marina had most everything a boater would need:    Island World for boat parts, an IGA within walking distance, propane, pool, customs and immigration, car rental, five restaurants and a very friendly staff.  We did a few chores to get the boat ready for storage and relaxed.

We stopped to see Marigot Marina.  It is in a
hurricane hole surrounded by mangroves.

Brian wanted to rent a car.  He loves driving these islands!  Maybe he just misses driving a car.  I ordered a small car which also meant a small engine.  There were several mountain passes that I thought I would have to get out and push us over the crest.  The two lane roads are extremely curvy and every time there was a short straight away three or four cars would zip passed us.  The center line on the highway is just a suggestion in these islands.  Most drivers take the middle of the road and only slide over at the moment before impact.  The vegetation is pretty scrubby.  However, driving through the mountains we did see a

Ceramic tile billboard set into the side of a mountain.

rain forest several times.  We have also noticed living fences on the last couple islands.  We first became aware of them when we went to Costa Rico about thirty years ago.  Branches are cut off trees and used as fence posts.  The land is so fertile that the branches begin to sprout leaves and grow into a new tree.  

Overlooking Soufriere, one of four major towns on
St Lucia. 

Shops are small in town and along the road.  This is
a jewelry store.

Downtown shopping 

Produce stands are frequent on all city streets
 and highways.

All of the Caribbean Islands that we have visited are extremely poor.  The people come up with some pretty creative ways to make a living off the tourists.  Unlike our visits to Mexico and Jamaica, we have not seen begging.  The further south we go the more aggressive the salesmen are becoming.  They still remain friendly, but if you get out of the car expect to be approached by several people selling native crafts, t-shirts and produce.      

In order to sell bananas to exporters,
the fruit must be blemish free.  They
are grown in these bags to protect
them from bruising.

For our Krogen friends:
This 38 foot sailboat was designed and built
by Jim Krogen for his personal use.
 It is one of a kind.  Still looks beautiful.

The Bird Man cornered us as we came out of a shop
and insisted on carving love birds for us from a
coconut husk.  After it was completed, he named the
birds Jackie and Brian and then blessed our marriage.
I want to throw it out, but I'm afraid it will break the
blessing.  Being together 24/7 we need all the help 

we can get!  

The finished sculpture.  This picture flatters it.

Saturday night Michelle and Randy (on left) invited
us, Doug and Kathy to dinner at Jambe de Bois!
Hoping we will cross paths with Nautilus again soon.  We've only known each other for a short
time, but feel like old friends already.  Thanks for
a great dinner and lots of laughs.

The Pitons near Soufriere are two mountainous volcanic plugs that rise from the sea.  
Gros Piton is 771 meters tall and Petit Piton is 743 meters.  What a site!   

                                                                           Gotta smile -- we're lovin the ride!

Martinique

May 16 - 20, 2014

A - Fort de France,  B - Anse Mitan,  C - Grande Anse d'Arlet

32 - Guadeloupe,  33 - Iles des Saints,  34 - Dominica,  35 - Martinique

First view of Martinique

Martinique is part of France.  Walking down the busy streets of Fort de France the French vibe is very evident.  Passing pedestrians seldom return a friendly smile or deviate from their course to give a little space to oncoming walkers.  The residents are obviously proud of their French heritage.  No matter how politely I asked, “parlez-vous Anglais?” I got a look of disbelief and disgust.  They don’t seem to grasp the concept of a visitor only staying in their country for a few days.  The impression is — if you are in Martinique you better speak French!  

Fort de France
The tall building was a casino/hotel -- now vacant.

Michelle and Randy's Nautilus 

Brian and Randy deep in conversation while the
women are out gathering food in the market.

Fort de France was the first big city we visited since leaving Miami.  One night was enough …. the city was too big, too French and too dirty.  When we pulled into the harbor and prepared to anchor we saw Nautilus with Michelle and Randy, who we had met in Portsmouth, Dominica.  After checking in, we stopped for a tour of their beautiful aluminum sailboat.  They had the same itinerary for Saturday morning that we did:  meet at 9 for a French breakfast (lots of delicious gooey pastry), see the market and stop at the big grocery (hyper-marche).  By noon we had moved both boats across the bay to Anse Mitan.   They came over for dinner which gave us time to exchange stories.  Brian and Randy have lots in common.  Michelle is an extremely talented woman who has had a very interesting career path.  And, she is a more than competent sailor.  We all laughed at the two times I ran our boat into piles of rock (they were under water) and did a ‘U’ turn in front of an oncoming tow boat loaded with barges.  No one would ever describe me as competent.  Hopefully, I’ve learned from those errors.  Michelle and I enjoy each other in spite of our different talents.        

      The historic fort in Fort de France.

The small picturesque village of Anse Mitan was a breath of fresh air on Sunday.  It was so much friendlier.  In trying to communicate, I find myself uncontrollably throwing out Spanish phrases when my hand gestures and English have failed to make the point.  If you find yourself in this situation, please make a mental note — mispronounced Spanish phrases are of no help!  At least, here the residents worked with us and

we were successful ordering lunch, gelato and finalizing several purchases.  We really did have a fun day!  There were lots of families at the beach and on the streets.  They returned smiles and greetings.  I have always tried to help foreign visitors in the States, but now I promise to be even more patient when they are struggling with their English.

                                                            Anse Mitan: shops at street level apartments above.         

                                                               

Monday we traveled an hour to Anse D’Arlet, which is really two towns:  Grande and Petite.  We anchored at Grande Anse D'Arlet in a well protected bay.  There was only one mooring ball left. We did notice that we were conspicuously larger than the neighboring boats, but didn't give it a second thought.  When we stopped in town to fill out the exit papers,

we were told the mooring balls were only for boats up to eight meters.  We are about 15 meters.        OK, we will move after our easy hike to Petite.  This is mistake number two.  I'm seeing a pattern.  When the guide book says 'an easy hike', I think that means five miles or less.  An easy hike in my mind is a couple of blocks.  Big Difference!  So, it is high noon when we start on our 'short hike' to Petite Anse D'Arlet.  An hour later we are looking for a place to eat, but because this is a French island, mid-afternoon everything is closed for a couple of hours.  I thought that there was another cute town south of Petite and convinced Brian we should take the bus to it.  This is mistake number three!  We did take the bus to the next town.  It was not cute and the bus service back to Grande was anything but reliable.  I panicked -- it would be dark in another hour.  I stood next to the road with my thumb out, hoping for a ride.  After being rejected by three cars, the bus showed up.  I jumped in the middle of the road flagging him down with both arms frantically waving.  I truly was that crazy American woman.  The bus did stop for us and we did make it back to Grande before dark.  Brian is still shaking his head and wondering how he got mixed up with me......  

 

I might have been a bit harsh in my judgement of the French in my earlier comments.  The people we met outside Fort de France were very friendly and helpful.  I'm thinking that it is big cities that make some people so surly.  

Gotta smile -- we're lovin the ride!