Gotta Smile!: Dominica

May 9 - 15, 2014

28 - St Martin, 29 - St Barth, 30 - Barbuda,
31 - Antigua, 32 - Guadeloupe
33 - Iles des Saints, 34 - Dominica

A - Prince Rupert Bay in Portsmouth

The red line indicates the 115 mile
hiking route.

Dominica is the youngest of the Caribbean Islands and the least commercial. Little has changed on the island since it was discovered by Columbus. It is commonly referred to as the Nature Island with it's seven potentially active volcanos, 365 rivers, a boiling lake and a hot waterfall. This island grows most of the produce for the rest of the islands. Christopher Columbus was trying to explain what Dominica looked like to King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella. In his frustration he resorted to crumpling a piece of parchment to demonstrate the rugged terrain. It is not as popular with most tourists as the other islands. But, for those who enjoy nature and hiking it is a favorite. The Wai'tukubuli National hiking trail is 115 miles long with levels of difficulty ranging from 1 - 5. The 115 miles is divided into 14 segments. We stuck to those with a ranking of 1.

The clouds have been spectacular. These look like
they are touching the sailboat masts.

We left Florida in November 2013. Since our departure from the States we have not seen a heavy rainfall. Normally there is a light sprinkle that lasts a few minutes. It frequently comes in the night. We jump out of bed and start closing the windows. Before we have them latched, the rain has stopped and we need to open them for ventilation. On Friday night, I heard the rain and awoke from a coma. I just laid there waiting for it to stop. Instead it rained harder and harder and the wind began blowing. This was real rain. Finally, Mother Nature was giving us a free boat wash. The rain and wind (with gusts to 45) continued all night and most of the next two days.

Because we arrived in Dominica after 4:00 on Friday we didn’t think we could check into customs until Monday. The office closes at 4. We stayed on the boat and flew our quarantine flag. There was plenty to keep us busy. I did laundry, made yogurt, read and wrote emails, did some cleaning and played endless games of Rummy Cube with Brian. Monday morning we went to customs with all of our documents, filled out the three pages of questions and prepared to pay our fee. Oh, NO, not so fast! We had violated Dominica's entry laws. Apparently, you must check in within 24 hours of arrival. We got a twenty minute lecture in front of eight other boaters waiting to check in. We were told that we could be subject to a fine of $6,000! Yowza, numbers like that really get our attention! And, then a few more minutes of lecturing. In the end, we only paid a single fee of $5 for entry and exit. At that point we thanked them profusely and scooted out the door as quickly as we could.

Maggie, our new friend on Sweet Dreams, sent an introduction about her friends, Michelle and Randy on Nautilus. She also sent an email to Michelle. Maggie had no idea which island either of us were on. Turns out, they were on the boat directly behind us. They stopped over for a great visit and had plenty of suggestions for our future travels. They are also on their way to Granada. We will see them along the way.

When we were in Puerto Rico, I entered my picture in a giveaway that Chicos was sponsoring. I didn’t win. On Saturday I glanced all the way through one of their emails (which I seldom do) and there was my picture! So far no calls for professional work. Oh, I forgot -- my phone is turned off until we are back to the States. That must be why.....

Tuesday and Wednesday we rented a car to see some of the sights. We fell in love with this island. Don't get me wrong -- I'm not moving here. But, we couldn't get over how beautiful it is. We didn't even scratch the surface. Mainly because we were lost most of the second day. But, even being lost was good. The flowers, trees, waterfalls, bubbling rivers and nice people made it all a great experience. The Dominicans are very proud of their country. They are friendly and eager to share it with visitors.

Driving throughout the island felt like
driving through a botanical garden,
without the plant identification signs.

Bromeliads growing on air roots in
the rainforest.

Bananas, papayas, mangos and
coconuts grow wild. Did you know
a banana plant only produces one
bunch and then dies?

Roadside vegetation is cutback and
a variety of ornamental plants are
installed. Not in cities or residential
areas. Along rural roads.

Small modest homes show pride of ownership with
colorful well kept gardens.

Farming on the steep hillsides.

Cows, horses, goats and sheep are left
near the road to graze.

Hiking through the rainforest to Trafalgar
Falls. This is a level 1 hike?

The two falls at Trafalgar: Father on the left and
Mother on the right.

Mother Falls

A hot sulfur spring near the base of the waterfall.

Very steep roads with hairpin turns and rock slides.

We're almost in the clouds.

Colorful houses in the valley

Clear Lake is a fresh water crater lake. We are high
in the mountains no longer in the rainforest. This
landscape is called a cloud forest.

The locals walk up and down these steep hills
everyday. Many of them carry their packages on
their heads.

A view with a house.

The roads were very good. Notice
the gutters along the road that were
at least a foot deep. You don't want to
drop a wheel in there!

Pipelines, on the left side of the bridge, carry fresh
water. They are wrapped with 1 inch thick boards.
Does anyone know why?

Roseau, the capital of Dominica.

Cascading river.

Back at sea level.

We missed the Carib Indian Reservation, but found a petroglyph by some of our ancestors.

The original construction of Ft Shirley began in 1774.
After falling into ruin, restoration began in 1982.

Looking over Prince Rupert Bay from Ft Shirley.
Pirates of The Caribbean 2 was largely filmed here
in Dominica. Enlarge the map at the top of the page
and see the locations that were used.

This is Providence our boat boy. He is a member
of a group called PAYS -- Portsmouth Area Yacht
Service. They will take care of any service boater's
need and arrange tours on land and water. A well
informed professional group of really nice men.

Providence picking us up at 6 AM for the
Indian River Tour.

River guide's boats waiting for other early risers.

Bloodwood trees live in salt water with roots that
snake over the soil and also work their way into
the water. Their base is massive with a more
delicate canopy.