Dominica

May 9 - 15, 2014

28 - St Martin,  29 - St Barth,  30 - Barbuda,   
31 - Antigua,  32 - Guadeloupe 
 33 - Iles des Saints,  34 - Dominica 

A - Prince Rupert Bay in Portsmouth

The red line indicates the 115 mile
hiking route.

Dominica is the youngest of the Caribbean Islands and the least commercial.  Little has changed on the island since it was discovered by Columbus.  It is commonly referred to as the Nature Island with it's seven potentially active volcanos, 365 rivers, a boiling lake and a hot waterfall.  This island grows most of the produce for the rest of the islands.  Christopher Columbus was trying to explain what Dominica looked like to King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella.  In his frustration he resorted to crumpling a piece of parchment to demonstrate the rugged terrain.  It is not as popular with most tourists as the other islands.  But, for those who enjoy nature and hiking it is a favorite.  The Wai'tukubuli National hiking trail is 115 miles long with levels of difficulty ranging from 1 - 5.  The 115 miles is divided into 14 segments.  We stuck to those with a ranking of 1.  

The clouds have been spectacular.  These look like
they are touching the sailboat masts.

We left Florida in November 2013.  Since our departure from the States we have not seen a heavy rainfall.  Normally there is a light sprinkle that lasts a few minutes.  It frequently comes in the night.  We jump out of bed and start closing the windows.  Before we have them latched, the rain has stopped and we need to open them for ventilation.   On Friday night, I heard the rain and awoke from a coma.  I just laid there waiting for it to stop.  Instead it rained harder and harder and the wind began blowing.  This was real rain.  Finally, Mother Nature was giving us a free boat wash.  The rain and wind (with gusts to 45) continued all night and most of the next two days.  

Because we arrived in Dominica after 4:00 on Friday we didn’t think we could check into customs until Monday. The office closes at 4.  We stayed on the boat and flew our quarantine flag.  There was plenty to keep us busy.  I did laundry, made yogurt, read and wrote emails, did some cleaning and played endless games of Rummy Cube with Brian.  Monday morning we went to customs with all of our documents, filled out the three pages of questions and prepared to pay our fee.  Oh, NO, not so fast!  We had violated Dominica's entry laws. Apparently, you must check in within 24 hours of arrival.  We got a twenty minute lecture in front of eight other boaters waiting to check in.  We were told that we could be subject to a fine of $6,000!  Yowza, numbers like that really get our attention!  And, then a few more minutes of lecturing.  In the end, we only paid a single fee of $5 for entry and exit.  At that point we thanked them profusely and scooted out the door as quickly as we could.    

Maggie, our new friend on Sweet Dreams, sent an introduction about her friends, Michelle and Randy on Nautilus.  She also sent an email to Michelle.  Maggie had no idea which island either of us were on.  Turns out, they were on the boat directly behind us.  They stopped over for a great visit and had plenty of suggestions for our future travels.  They are also on their way to Granada.  We will see them along the way.                      

When we were in Puerto Rico, I entered my picture in a giveaway that Chicos was sponsoring.  I didn’t win.  On Saturday I glanced all the way through one of their emails (which I seldom do) and there was my picture!  So far no calls for professional work.  Oh, I forgot -- my phone is turned off until we are back to the States.  That must be why.....  

Tuesday and Wednesday we rented a car to see some of the sights.  We fell in love with this island.  Don't get me wrong -- I'm not moving here.  But, we couldn't get over how beautiful it is.  We didn't even scratch the surface.  Mainly because we were lost most of the second day.  But, even being lost was good.  The flowers, trees, waterfalls, bubbling rivers and nice people made it all a great experience.  The Dominicans are very proud of their country.  They are friendly and eager to share it with visitors.  

Driving throughout the island felt like
driving through a botanical garden,
without the plant identification signs.  

Bromeliads growing on air roots in
the rainforest.

       

Bananas, papayas, mangos and
 coconuts grow wild.  Did you know
a banana plant only produces one 
bunch and then dies?  

Roadside vegetation is cutback and
a variety of ornamental plants are
installed.  Not in cities or residential
areas.  Along rural roads. 

Small modest homes show pride of ownership with
colorful well kept gardens.

Farming on the steep hillsides.

Cows, horses, goats and sheep are left
 near the road to graze. 

Hiking through the rainforest to Trafalgar
Falls.  This is a level 1 hike?

The two falls at Trafalgar: Father on the left and
Mother on the right.

Mother Falls

A hot sulfur spring near the base of the waterfall.

Very steep roads with hairpin turns and rock slides.

We're almost in the clouds.

Colorful houses in the valley 

Clear Lake is a fresh water crater lake.  We are high
in the mountains no longer in the rainforest.  This
landscape is called a cloud forest. 

The locals walk up and down these steep hills
everyday.  Many of them carry their packages on
their heads.

A view with a house.

The roads were very good.  Notice
the gutters along the road that were
at least a foot deep.  You don't want to
drop a wheel in there!

Pipelines, on the left side of the bridge, carry fresh
water.  They are wrapped with 1 inch thick boards.
Does anyone know why? 

Roseau, the capital of Dominica.

Cascading river.

Back at sea level.

We missed the Carib Indian Reservation, but found a petroglyph by some of our ancestors.

The original construction of Ft Shirley began in 1774.
After falling into ruin, restoration began in 1982.   

Looking over Prince Rupert Bay from Ft Shirley.
Pirates of The Caribbean 2 was largely filmed here
in Dominica.  Enlarge the map at the top of the page
and see the locations that were used.

This is Providence our boat boy.  He is a member
of a group called PAYS -- Portsmouth Area Yacht
Service.  They will take care of any service boater's
need and arrange tours on land and water.  A well
informed professional group of really nice men.       

Providence picking us up at 6 AM for the
Indian River Tour.  

River guide's boats waiting for other early risers.

Bloodwood trees live in salt water with roots that
snake over the soil and also work their way into
the water.  Their base is massive with a more
delicate canopy.
   

The tranquil Indian River

No, we didn't add masts to the boat!
A sail boat is hidden behind us.

       Gotta smile -- we're lovin the ride!

Iles des Saints

May 8, 2014

29 - St Barth,  30 - Barbuda,   31 - Antigua,  32 - Guadeloupe  33 - Iles des Saints 

A -- Bourg des Saintes on Terre d'en Haut

Our first view of Bourg des Saintes

Local fishing boats with Guadeloupe hidden in
the clouds.

The Iles des Saintes is a group of small French islands.  Like Guadeloupe they are a department of France.  If you want a beach vacation that makes you feel like you have gone to the continent, this is the place.  Small hotels (LoBleu) are right on the beach.  The narrow streets lined with shops and restaurants are mainly closed to cars.  But, watch out for the scooters that zip through town with reckless abandonment.  Most businesses close for a couple of hours in the afternoon.   Ferry boats can take you to other nearby islands if you want a change of scenery.         

 Main street

The church marks the center of town.

Our destination was Bourg des Saintes on the largest island of the group, Terre d'en Haut.  Bourg des Saintes is the only town in this group of islands.  I guess that is why it is so charming -- everything went into one pot.  Euros are the only currency accepted in the restaurants and shops, French is the only language spoken by most of the residents.  The women feel free to go topless at the beach and almost so in town.  I tried to immerse myself in the French culture, but Brian insisted that I put my shirt back on! 

Gotta smile -- we're lovin the ride!

Guadeloupe

April 5 - 7, 2014

28 - St Martin,  29 - St Barth,  30 - Barbuda,   31 - Antigua,  32 - Guadeloupe  

Guadeloupe:  A - Deshaies,  B - Basse-Terre

As we approached the harbor at Deshaies, Guadeloupe a pod of ten dolphins played in the wake of our bow.  Almost every time we arrive in a new bay a large sea turtle is waiting to welcome us.  We haven’t seen dolphins for a while so it was a treat to have a couple join us and then another and another..........

Deshaies -- a sleepy little fishing village.

This isn't a very good photo.  The
dolphin are barely visible.  You need to
come down and see them in person! 

Guadeloupe is really two islands that are separated by a narrow channel of mangroves.  They are both the result of volcanic activity.  Because Grande Terre is older, it is flatter.  Erosion has eaten away at the hills over millions of years making it a much flatter landscape.  The younger island, Basse Terre has a beautiful green mountainous terrain with small villages tucked into the valleys near the coast.  It is lush.  Guadeloupe is a department of France as are the smaller nearby islands:  the Saintes and Marie Galante.  The shops do not take US dollars, there is very little English spoken, their flag is that of France and the bakeries are full of delicious French delicacies.   

The lush younger side of Guadeloupe, Base Terre.

We had such a good time wondering through the
gardens.

Deshaies claim to fame is their spectacular Botanical Garden.   As we approached the dingy dock we were trying to decide how we would contact the garden center to have the van pick us up.  A family from Maryland with her French parents were lingering on the dock.  I asked if they were going to the gardens and she said they had just called for the van.  Problem solved!  We needed to grab a quick breakfast at the bakery so they asked the van to come back for us.  Perfect!!!  The gardens were wonderful.  It was a comfortable stroll on paved walkways up and down hills with benches in small niches.  The plants were placed to resemble their natural habitat.  Signs identified most of the species.  Unfortunately, they were only written in

The base of a Banyan tree.  Looks like
a character from a Star Wars movie.

French.  Many names were close enough to English to verify what I thought they were.        

The sculptured trunk of the Ceiba tree.
.

The air roots of a Ficus tree. 

Bananas in the early stage.

Orchids, ferns and bromeliads growing on a
tree branch.

Maggie and Al, who we met in Jolly Harbor, were on their way back to Antigua.  They stopped for a night in Deshaies.  We invited them over for a drink and had another fun evening swapping stories about life at sea. 

On our way south to Base-Terre.  More of the rugged
terrain. 

We got a late start on Wednesday.  Brian had to do a few repairs.  Basse-Terre, the capital city, was an overnight anchorage with no trip into town.  

Gotta smile - we're lovin the ride!