Barbuda and Antigua

April 27 - May 6, 2014

22 - San Juan, Puerto Rico,  23 - Fijardo, Puerto Rico  24 - Culebra, Puerto Rico,  25 - St Thomas, USVI,
26 - St John, USVI,  27 - British Virgin Islands,  28 - St Martin,  29 - St Barth,  30 - Barbuda,   31 - Antigua  

A - Cocoa Point Bay

As far as you can see, the island is this flat and
the water and beaches are this beautiful!

Barbuda is a low flat island that could easily be missed.  With it’s highest point only 125 feet above the sea it blends right in with the water.  We pulled into Cocoa Bay for the night.  It was a beautiful well protected anchorage that allowed us to get a great night’s sleep.   There is only one town, Codrington, and very limited facilities on the island.  What Barbuda does have is an abundance of deserted pale pink beaches, gorgeous  turquoise water and coral shoals that stretch around the island’s perimeter.  We plan to stop on our way north.  The        snorkeling is reported to be excellent.  

The Barbudans were originally imported slaves by the Cordington family who leased the island from England for one fat sheep in 1685.  After emancipation most of the former slaves stayed.  All of the land on the island is owned communally.  Since there is no individual land ownership, land cannot be sold to outsiders unless the local council approves.  Thus far, there have been no approvals. 

Antigua 

A - Jolly Harbour,  B - Carlisle Bay,  C - Falmouth Bay,  D - Long Bay (Lunch),  E - Ft Charles          

Antigua's waters are just as blue as Barbuda's,
but the land is totally different.

By the time we arrived at our mooring ball in Jolly Harbour we realized that we had traveled 2005 miles since we left Stuart, FL last November.  That is a long way when you are traveling at six to seven miles an hour.  

This mooring ball has a pendent.  The pendent has
a small white buoy on the end.  This helps it float and
makes it easier to yank it with a pole.  Lines from the
boat go through the loop of the pendent.  The
 mooring ball in Jolly Harbor only had the loop on the
top of the orange mooring ball.  TROUBLE!!!!

Mooring balls usually have a pendent (a heavy line) on the top that we grab with a hook on the end of a long pole.   In Jolly Harbour there are no pendents just a ring that is about three inches in diameter.  The bow of our boat is nine feet above the water.  There is no way we could grab that ring with the pole and get a line through it to secure us.  Luckily a French couple were watching and took pity.  He jumped in his dingy and came to our rescue.  Since he didn’t speak English, I was forced to demonstrate my extensive French vocabulary….bonjour and merci beaucoup.  He smiled — obviously impressed!

The dingy dock seems to be the place where we snag people to talk with.  We met Maggie and Al on Sweet Dreams from Maine and after chatting them up for a while, they invited us to join them for dinner at the local Italian restaurant.  It was the ever popular two for one pizza night.  They have been down here for several years and seemed to know everyone in the marina.  They gave us some excellent suggestions on places to skip and other locations that are a must see.  Maggie also had lots of advise on leaving the boat for hurricane season, local produce markets, restaurants and where to do provisioning.  A fun night and, as a bonus, we brought home one of the pizzas so I didn’t have to cook the next night either! Of course, Maggie and Al aren’t going south.  They are leaving their boat here in Antigua for hurricane season.

Speaking of hurricane season, we found a marina in Grenada where we can leave Gotta Smile….Spice Island Marina.  They were highly recommended and everyone seems to love Grenada.  I’m sure it will be a good location.  

Lunch at Tartaruga Resort on Long Bay.  

We rented a car for a day to see what the rest of the island looked like.  The poverty is obvious almost everywhere.  Even the few nice neighborhoods that we stumbled across were surrounded with much poorer housing.  It was good to see what is beyond the beaches and marinas.  

Driving to historical Fort Charles,
we passed at least 50 of these century
 plants in bloom.  They only bloom once
every 10 to 30 years.  The spikes were
all 30 to 40 feet tall.  Amazing to see
so many in full bloom!

The overlook at Fort Charles gives a dramatic view
of Falmouth and English Harbours.

I feel like I have vaulted to another level of this “live aboard” life.  I made my own yogurt today.  It turned out perfect and is delicious!  Now, I have to remember to save a couple of tablespoons as a starter for the next batch.   It's made in a thermos with powdered milk.  I should have bought a bigger thermos.    

For anyone planning their first trip in this region let me share a couple of thoughts.  A website called “The Boat Galley” has excellent suggestions for cooking, equipment, provisioning and general life on board.  Be sure to use her as a resource.  I am thankful everyday for my washer and dryer, the water maker, wifi booster antenna and trash compacter.  We seldom stay in marinas.  Being self sufficient is a great feeling.  When we left Florida, we had no idea what the groceries would be like.  I have been pleasantly surprised at how good they are.  Our stops in the Bahamas had minimal variety and the quality was questionable.  Every place we have visited since the Turks and Caicos has been very good.  Prices are, of course, higher than US, but as our friend John said, “Don’t look at the price.  If you need it, just buy it.”  It took a while for me to get into that frame of mind.  But, he’s right.  There aren’t a lot of options.  Besides the currency exchange is different on most of the islands, so I have no idea what things cost!  In Antigua it is 2.6 to 1.  My ability to do quick math is limited when decimal points are added to the mix.   

I know I have said it too many times, but
after 6 months I still can't get over how
beautiful this water is.  

After four days in Jolly Harbour, we visited Carlisle Bay.  It was a good spot to just veg out for an afternoon.  

Carlisle Bay Resort looks like a relaxing vacation
location. 

We took a mooring for two nights in Falmouth Harbour.  It is an extremely well protected harbor and adjacent to the equally protected, English Harbour.  The English Harbour Dockyard was completed in 1784 when it’s potential was recognized as a secure port by the British.  It has been restored as a beautiful and fully functional yachting center.   Restored buildings now house shops, restaurants and hotels. The dockyard’s name was changed to Nelson’s Dockyard.  Admiral Horatio Nelson arrived in Antigua when he was 26 years old.  He served in Antigua as naval commander for a short time after Sir Richard Hughes blinded himself in one eye while chasing a cockroach with a fork. 

Most of the large sailboats left for Europe earlier
in the week.  

The two harbors are all about sailing:  schools and regattas.  Antigua Sailing Week brings sailing yachts from all over the Caribbean and Europe.  Customs told us that 110 yachts registered with them during last week’s regatta.  We know nothing about sailing, but can’t help but admire their sleek beauty. 

Sherakhan (226 FT) from the Netherlands was
arriving as we left.  Everywhere you look there are
big beautiful ships! 

Gotta smile -- we're lovin the ride!