Bequia

May 25 - 27, 2014

A -- Admiralty Bay - Port Elizabeth

33 - Iles de Saints,  34 - Dominica,  35 - Martinique,  36 - St Lucia,  37 - Bequia   

On our way to Bequia I'm reading the island introduction in our guide book.  Then I pass it to Brian and he reads it.  The guide tells us, 'the mooring balls break free quite often.  They are poorly designed  and the customs office issued a warning about them.  Rely on your own judgement as the vendors are only interested in collecting their fee.  If you do pay for one be sure to get a receipt.'  Our boat is heavier than most of the boats down here.  And, the wind is howling.  Greater weight and high wind equal more stress on a mooring ball.  So, as we approach the bay we are greeted by Baker who convinces Brian that he has a mooring ball that will hold us.  We pay him for two nights and get no receipt.  He has none with him.  Consequently I'm up writing at 3 AM!  Just waiting for the anchor alarm to go off telling us we are free floating.  Oh, ye of little faith....that's me!  The mooring ball held through three nights.  When we were on shore, I kept looking out at the harbor to make sure Gotta Smile was in her appointed location.  She behaved well, just as Baker had promised.  

I have to tell you, after the introduction about the mooring balls, I was pretty skeptical about how much I would like this island.  Boy, did I get a surprise!  It is one of my favorites!  The harbor has a beautiful paved walk right at the water's edge.  There are vendors with some beautiful work for sale and at reasonable prices.  The people were extremely friendly.  The water is pristine.  The beaches are palm lined and look like a movie set.  The shops, restaurants, hotels and homes all blend in with the scenery.  There are no big fancy resorts and there is no cruise ship pier.  In other words, this is exactly what a brochure for a quiet Caribbean vacation would look like.

 

The Gingerbread House was perfect for a mid
afternoon snack.  Gingerbread for Brian (or course)
and sorbet for me: coconut and passion fruit!

Paved walkway from the harbor to the beach.

Two new taste sensations:  sweet apple and wax apple

Richard, a Bequian whale bone carver, in his beach
front shop....no walls - just a palm tree and beach.

Bequia is one of the few places in the world where limited whaling is still sanctioned by the International Whaling Commission.  The natives of Bequia are allowed to kill up to four whales per year, but they must use the same technique and equipment that their ancestors used:  hand thrown harpoons, small open sailing boats and the whale must be brought to shore by the same small boat (no motors).  Only native Bequians can participate in the hunt.   Many years no whales are taken.  The art of hunting without technology and mechanical assistance is almost lost.   

Two whale ribs form an arch at the entrance to the
Whale Boner Restaurant & Bar.  

                  

A rib bone accents the bar and vertebrae serve as 
seats on the bar stools.  The Whale Boner is a 
legendary stop in Bequia.

Gotta smile -- we're lovin the ride!